Se qualcuno pensa che ormai il lavoro sia finito rimarrà probabilmente deluso. Credo non sia sfuggito a nessuno che le varie costole erano state assemblate con una sofisticata tecnica di fissaggio alla base di costruzione per le "costole di rinforzo" e con l'aiuto di piccoli perni di legno (probabilmente stecchi "Samurai") per tutte le altre, in modo da ottenere un insieme stabile e rigido. Quindi è seguito il processo di levigatura.
A questo punto la parte esterna dela scafo è a posto, rimane da sistemare la parte interna, che deve essere ridotta di spessore sopra la linea del ponte.
Quindi a questo punto l'intero semi scafo viene completamente disassemblato, partendo dalla prua e dalla poppa e avanzando verso centro nave. Quindi ogni costola viene ridotta di spessore e quindi definitivamente riassemblata, questa volta usando finalmente la colla ...
Sfortunatamente non ci sono immagini che documentano il lavoro di riduzione dello spessore interno, ma credo che si possa abbastanza facilmente intuire quale sia il procedimento. Non credo che sia stato comunque una banalità ...
Le immagini che seguono documentano l'operazione di disassemblaggio del semiscafo.
01
02
03
Per ultimo ho contattato il nostro MacTavish per avere delle risposte alle varie domande che erano state poste in questa discussione sull'opportunità di utilizzare questo metodo, laborioso e complesso, al posto di quelli più spesso da noi utilizzati. La prima citazione è il testo del mio messaggio, nel quale chiedo lumi. Non ho ritenuto di tradurlo in italiano per "fallunnoneria" ... Buona lettura ... Jack.
Cita:
Hi MacTavish,
I'm following with GREAT interest you topic because it is the first attempt I've found to explain in deep this "quite unknown" technique to build a ship hull. My interest is so great that I'm maintaining a similar topic on a italian forum and I'm using many of your images to explain the method.
This method is practically unknown to the major part of italian modelers and the thread is followed with interest . . . . and I also receive some comments about this "new" method.
The most recursive question is the following: which are the advantages deriving by using this method vs the classical POB method ? Why shall I work so hardly and spend so much time to obtain a quite similar result ?
So, as you can understand there is some kind of scepticism. My personal opinion is that if a master shipmodeler such as Dr. Michael and many other modelers from the ex-URSS countries are using this methos there should be GREAT hidden reasons that apparently aren't easy to discover.
Can you explain some of them ? Many thanks in advance and, please, continue to document regularly your excellent work. Regards. Jack.
Ho ricevuto alcune risposte, che pubblico integralmente.
Cita:
Perhaps I can give a few shots:
It is difficult to bevel the frames on a POB: you have to do this on eyesight, especially at the bow & stern. Using fillerblocs in those areas is fine but one should observe their symmetry.
A POB hull can warp unless the keel en bulkheads form a sturdy, rigid framework.
Fairing a bloc hull is easier & faster, certainly a half hull that is supported on a flat table, it's a stable mounted workpiece
The planking on a POB has less support, unles many frames are put in.
On a POB one has to fill the space between the inner & outerplanking (above the visible decks) and around the gunports. The latter is often done with very awkward & tedious methods and therefore I suggested the 'tube method' which I described in a previous post in this thread.
That's my take, Papillon.
Cita:
I have to agree with Papillon. Many times on my POB I had to put so many fillers, that it was almost full hull. Not to speak about solidity of model... Zarko
Ed ecco la risposta di MacTavish...
Cita:
Hi all and thanks for the comments. I am glad to know the build is being followed attentively.
Firstly, I should say that Dr Mike is the creator and the only Russian modeller who uses this technology that I know of. One of the things that impressed me most about him is his incredible creativity in discovering ways to do things - from making nails to building the decks. As you follow my build you will see a lot more of it that will continue to surprise you.
The other thing I should add is that not all Russian modellers build high quality models. We are lucky to have some great modellers on this forum but I personally saw some average to low quality models while I was in St Petersburg.
Another superb modeller who builds as good as you will find anywhere is a gentleman called Slava who lives next to Woodeater. Maybe Woodeater will be kind enough to post some photos of his work..??
Jack - the key advantages of this method of hull construction are:
1. Maximum hull strength to prevent warping over time and offer maximum strength to the subsequent final planking. (Cutting gunports is also much easier using this technology)
2. Close to exact symmetry of both halves of the hull as each corresponding frame is tested against each other
3. Each frame's shape is derived from and follows the plans exactly so you replicate the shape of the hull as closely as possible.
As an example of the hull's strength I accidentally dropped one half of my hull yesterday onto a tiled floor (it slid off of the table) after I had a few G&Ts and no damage was done at all!
By the way, Jack - can you please provide a link to this Italian forum? MacTavish
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